Impact of emollients on the spreading properties of cosmetic products: a combined sensory and instrumental characterization.
Identifieur interne : 000466 ( Main/Exploration ); précédent : 000465; suivant : 000467Impact of emollients on the spreading properties of cosmetic products: a combined sensory and instrumental characterization.
Auteurs : Géraldine Savary [France] ; Michel Grisel ; Céline PicardSource :
- Colloids and surfaces. B, Biointerfaces [ 1873-4367 ] ; 2013.
English descriptors
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Abstract
This study deals with the impact of emollients on the spreading properties of cosmetic products using a combined sensory-instrumental approach. To that purpose, three esters and one silicone were selected and incorporated separately into an oil phase. Different cosmetic o/w emulsions were then prepared with these different oil phases. Both of them were analyzed by instrumental techniques and in vivo sensory analyses. A significant effect of the emollient used was established in emulsions and in oil phases as well. Concerning emulsions, results reveal a clear correlation between in vivo spreading evaluation and friction coefficient parameters measured by texture analyzer, despite a fairly low correlation coefficient (Pearson coefficient=-0.78). Concerning oil phases, characterization of spreading was done by monitoring the contact angle relaxation of a drop of solution after deposition on a flat PMMA surface whereas sensory procedure was based on spontaneous spreading of oil phases onto the skin. Finally, good correlations between in vivo sensory analysis and instrumental measurements of both oils and emulsions were found, thus promising the possible development of predictive tools to evaluate spreadability.
DOI: 10.1016/j.colsurfb.2012.07.028
PubMed: 23174669
Affiliations:
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Le document en format XML
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<front><div type="abstract" xml:lang="en">This study deals with the impact of emollients on the spreading properties of cosmetic products using a combined sensory-instrumental approach. To that purpose, three esters and one silicone were selected and incorporated separately into an oil phase. Different cosmetic o/w emulsions were then prepared with these different oil phases. Both of them were analyzed by instrumental techniques and in vivo sensory analyses. A significant effect of the emollient used was established in emulsions and in oil phases as well. Concerning emulsions, results reveal a clear correlation between in vivo spreading evaluation and friction coefficient parameters measured by texture analyzer, despite a fairly low correlation coefficient (Pearson coefficient=-0.78). Concerning oil phases, characterization of spreading was done by monitoring the contact angle relaxation of a drop of solution after deposition on a flat PMMA surface whereas sensory procedure was based on spontaneous spreading of oil phases onto the skin. Finally, good correlations between in vivo sensory analysis and instrumental measurements of both oils and emulsions were found, thus promising the possible development of predictive tools to evaluate spreadability.</div>
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